Chilling in Bahia el Aguila
After two days of rest and relaxation in Punta Arenas, it was time for a new small adventure. This time a little more laid back than last time. From two fellow travellers we had heard about a beautiful hike along the coast just south of Punta Arenas. In its entirety the hike should be quite the gruelling affair containing multiple deep river crossings and hours of hiking in loose stones and sand on the beach. Not really what we had in mind for this mini-adventure. With a big hike coming up next week, there's a good reason not to overdo it this time around. We decided to split the difference and do a portion of the hike.
From Punta Arenas we took a public bus to San Juan about an hour's drive south of the city. From here we walked along the coastline passing by the San Isidro Lighthouse and ending up in the Eagle Bay (Bahia el Aguila) where we set up camp. While walking the coast, we spotted not only sei whales but also sea lions and seals. In total we hiked about 18 kilometres. For a day which was intended to be easy, it was still pretty hard. Our plan was to find a good camping spot which we could use for two nights so that we could spend the second day doing a bit of joy hiking along the beach.
After looking around a bit for the perfect spot in the bay we found a small clearing which would do the trick. Clearly other people had been camping there before us. The only disadvantage was a less than optimal water supply. A small stream with relatively slow running yellowish water… After a really bad case of stomach issues a few years ago in Scotland, we have gotten more careful when choosing our water sources. But really, it was this or hiking an additional 5 kilometres before we would get to the next bigger river. And there was no guarantee that it would be any better. We decided to stay put but doubled up on our water safety measures by first cleaning the water with chlorine and then boiling it. That should kill most unpleasantries.
As we finished dinner, a speedboat broke the silence, heading straight for our spot on the coastline. From a distance it was difficult to see who or what was approaching. It turned out to be a local tour guide with a small group of tourists. One of the guests needed a toilet break and the beach in front of us is the only safe landing spot in the bay, away from the sharp rocks along the coastline. The guide apologised for breaking our peace and quiet. To make up for the disruption she offered cookies and freshwater. We happily accepted.
We chatted briefly with her and the two other crew members while their guests were enjoying the beach. She told us about a whale that had washed ashore last year; you could still find pieces of its teeth along the coast. A few minutes later, she returned with one.
Quite impressive! She also told us that the orange fungi growing on trees throughout southern Chile and Argentina are edible - tasteless but nutritious. As a parting gift she assured us that the water from the steam was safe to drink though it does have a very high mineral content turning it yellow. And just like that, peace returned to our little slice of paradise.
Other hikers had warned us about the foxes lurking in the forest and along the coastline; any unattended food or garbage is an easy target for these opportunistic creatures. I really wanted a photo of the fox so I was secretly hoping that it would show up. As the sun set, a fox appeared. After lurking at the edge of the forest, it dared sneaking a bit closer, hoping to find any unattended treats. As a precaution, we had hung our food bag high in a tree - well outside the reach of the fox’s tiny paws. After having sniffed around for a few minutes the fox retreated back into the forest. Disappointed by the inaccessible food and the fact that two vegans had set up camp on its beach. No sausages or steaks to steal at night, only dry oats and potato flakes. Disappointed, it didn’t return after that.
The next day, we packed a light bag with essentials: warm clothes, camera gear and empty water bottles. Our plan had all along been to do an easy hike that day so walking the 5 kilometre to the next river in search of better water seemed like a suitable goal. The hike along the coastline was impressive, with spectacular landscapes. The water quality at the next river was better - not perfect but definitely a significant improvement. We filled our bottles and headed back to camp. We enjoyed a well-deserved dinner while watching the whales pass by our bay.
On our third day we planned to walk back towards our original drop-off point. The bus was scheduled to leave Saturday morning at 9.15, with the next one not for another 12 hours, so we didn’t really feel like missing the morning departure. We found a cute little camp spot by a river about 3,5 kilometres from the bus stop. We didn’t want to camp right next to the bus stop so this seemed like a good compromise. This way we wouldn’t have to get up too early to make the last stretch.
The river teemed with small fishes and the air was full of beautiful birds. While cooking dinner, I looked out over the channel and to my amazement saw a jumping dolphin. I immediately abandoned the stove, grabbed my camera and ran to the coast, hoping to capture a picture of a jumping dolphin. Dolphins, just like whales and other marine wildlife, are notoriously difficult to photograph. You only see them when they’re out of the water and then you’re almost always too late.
The next morning, as we walked the last few kilometres to the bus, we joked about how Patagonia is the only place where the sun can be burning your face, while it’s raining down your neck. To call the weather temperamental is to put it gently. We made it to the bus with plenty of time to spare.